MULTI-LINED RIGHT-HANDER
WORDS: DAVID PINGREE
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
WORDS: DAVID PINGREE
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
PHOTOS: SIMON CUDBY
MULTI-LINED RIGHT-HANDER
T
his month’s sequence is something you’ll find often on racetracks, and it’s a technique that isn’t used often enough. Right-hand corners are more difficult because you lose the ability to use the rear brake the moment you commit to sitting and putting your foot out. If the turn is flat or has a big berm, this isn’t much of an issue. However, if the turn has a long rut, or one that bends and straightens, it can be extremely technical.
This turn is a 90-degree right-hander with a rut that has a hook at the beginning, a straighter section, and then a second hook to complete the turn. If you attempt to negotiate the corner with your foot out, timing is critical, and a dab of the foot can leave you dragging your Tech 10 behind you like a boat anchor for most of the turn.
I advocate for standing up more. You’ll hear me preach this often because some of the world’s best riders keep their feet on the pegs as much as possible. Doing so lets you maintain more control of the bike, minimizes the chances of injuring your knees and ankles, and saves energy. It’s a no-brainer, right?
I’m entering the turn the same way I would any other corner: standing up, moving weight back to compensate for the braking (the harder the braking, the more you need to shift back), elbows up, looking at the line ahead.
This is where most riders will be tempted to sit and put their foot out. The minute they do this, they’ve lost the ability to trial brake—a critical function in a turn that has multiple apexes like this one. Instead, stay on the pegs and simply lean the bike into the turn. I always make sure my toes are tucked inward if there’s a rut that could grab them. Try to keep your upper body upright and quiet while using your arms and legs to lean the bike down.
As I enter the first “hook” in this turn, I make sure to keep my body in a neutral position with my head over the triple clamps. I start looking ahead to the next part of the turn. This rut has a 10’ section that straightens out and then another sharp hook at the end. Apply some throttle here to control and maintain your lean angle. Stay off the clutch! You’ll be much smoother if you control the power with the throttle. Snapping the clutch will upset the chassis and force the bike to yaw forward and then back, making the transition between the two apexes much more difficult.
This is the straight section of the rut. I’m focused on the second apex and applying throttle smoothly and in a controlled manner. I can still drag the rear brake to help me balance or control speed, but there’s no need to use the front at this point. You did all your major slowing on the corner entrance.
I’m looking at the rut in the second apex and treating this like it’s the primary location for direction change in the corner. Just like any other turn, I’m gently dropping into the saddle, putting my foot out, beginning to lean into the turn, and preparing to apply more throttle once I lean in.
I’m settled into the pocket of the bike, my foot is out, and I’m applying power and leaning in more to compensate for the additional power. At this point, you want to look forward at the next obstacle and accelerate hard out of the turn.
I’m fully leaned in and on the gas here. The last thing to do is bring my foot back to the peg, grab a shift, and look ahead. Try it at your local track! 
I’m entering the turn the same way I would any other corner: standing up, moving weight back to compensate for the braking (the harder the braking, the more you need to shift back), elbows up, looking at the line ahead.This is where most riders will be tempted to sit and put their foot out. The minute they do this, they’ve lost the ability to trial brake—a critical function in a turn that has multiple apexes like this one. Instead, stay on the pegs and simply lean the bike into the turn. I always make sure my toes are tucked inward if there’s a rut that could grab them. Try to keep your upper body upright and quiet while using your arms and legs to lean the bike down.As I enter the first “hook” in this turn, I make sure to keep my body in a neutral position with my head over the triple clamps. I start looking ahead to the next part of the turn. This rut has a 10’ section that straightens out and then another sharp hook at the end. Apply some throttle here to control and maintain your lean angle. Stay off the clutch! You’ll be much smoother if you control the power with the throttle. Snapping the clutch will upset the chassis and force the bike to yaw forward and then back, making the transition between the two apexes much more difficult.Here’s where it starts to happen. As my front wThis is the straight section of the rut. I’m focused on the second apex and applying throttle smoothly and in a controlled manner. I can still drag the rear brake to help me balance or control speed, but there’s no need to use the front at this point. You did all your major slowing on the corner entrance.I’m looking at the rut in the second apex and treating this like it’s the primary location for direction change in the corner. Just like any other turn, I’m gently dropping into the saddle, putting my foot out, beginning to lean into the turn, and preparing to apply more throttle once I lean in.I’m settled into the pocket of the bike, my foot is out, and I’m applying power and leaning in more to compensate for the additional power. At this point, you want to look forward at the next obstacle and accelerate hard out of the turn.I’m fully leaned in and on the gas here. The last thing to do is bring my foot back to the peg, grab a shift, and look ahead. Try it at your local track! 
